How to Choose a Cowboy Hat in Dallas: Size, Shape, Felt vs Straw and What the X Really Means
You walk in, see a wall of more than 100 hats, and the only thing you know for sure is that you like the black one. That is how most people start. This guide is what we tell you at the counter at Teres Western Wear, written down so you can come in knowing what you want. It covers the five things that decide whether a hat is yours: size, felt or straw, what the X rating means, the shape of crown and brim, and the price.
1. Start with your real size, not the one you think you are
Most people who "don't look good in hats" are wearing the wrong size. Measure before you shop: wrap a soft tape around your head about 1/8 inch above your ears and eyebrows, where the hat will actually sit, and read the number in inches or centimeters.
| Head measurement | Centimeters | US hat size |
|---|---|---|
| 21 1/8 in | 54 | 6 3/4 |
| 21 1/2 in | 55 | 6 7/8 |
| 21 7/8 in | 56 | 7 |
| 22 1/4 in | 57 | 7 1/8 |
| 22 5/8 in | 58 | 7 1/4 |
| 23 in | 59 | 7 3/8 |
| 23 3/8 in | 60 | 7 1/2 |
| 23 3/4 in | 61 | 7 5/8 |
| 24 1/8 in | 62 | 7 3/4 |
Why two columns? Because the label sewn inside the sweatband usually shows both systems. A Mexican-made RDR or Tombstone will say 58 on top and 7 1/4 underneath; a Stetson box says 7 1/4. Same head, same hat. If you fall between two sizes, go up for felt and get it shaped, or try the smaller one in straw and see how it sits: felt gives a little with wear, straw does not.
What we stock: 6 3/4 through 7 1/2 across all brands, plus 7 5/8 in Bullhide and Tombstone, and a 7 3/4 in the Tombstone Chaparral 1000X. A few Bullhide straws come in S, M, L and XL instead of numbered sizes; we match those on the spot.
2. Felt or straw is a question of when you will wear it
In Dallas the straw season is long. Palm and shantung straws breathe, take the sun and are what you see at rodeos, jaripeos and on the job from March into October. Felt (wool, fur blend or beaver) is the dress hat and the cold-weather hat: it holds a crease, sheds a light rain and looks right with a good shirt. Plenty of our customers own one of each. If you are picking your first, think about the month you will wear it most. We wrote a full comparison in Felt vs Straw Cowboy Hats: X Ratings Explained.
3. What the X really means, and when it means nothing
There is no industry standard for X. Within a single brand, more X means a finer felt with more fur, or a tighter, finer straw weave. Across brands, the numbers do not compare, and this is where people overpay or underbuy.
Inside one brand it works like a ladder. In our Stetson wall you climb from the Deadwood 4X in wool felt ($169.99) to the 6X fur blends (Palacio II, Lariat, Spartan, Skyline and Rancher, $299.99 to $399.99), then to the Shasta 10X in beaver felt ($599.99), the El Patron 30X ($800) and the El Presidente 100X ($1,400). Each step is lighter, holds its shape longer and shrugs off more weather. Resistol runs the same way: 3X and 4X wool from $149.99 to $190, 6X fur felt at $380.
Now the traps:
- Tombstone: a 1000X costs less than a 30X. The Tombstone 1000X Master Telar is a machine-woven palm hat at $79.99; the Tombstone 30X is a hand-woven, denser straw at $189.99 and the 5000X Master Telar sits at $219.99. Same brand, and the X does not order the price. The X tells you the type of weave, not the tier.
- The "50" on a Tombstone sweatband is not 50X. It is the brand's 50th anniversary emblem, embroidered next to "Supreme Handwoven." The real quality is printed on the box label and the hangtag. If a hat looks like a bargain because of a number inside it, ask us to check the tag.
- Bullhide straws say 20X or 25X and cost $35.99 to $79.99. That is honest for a straw from that maker, and it is not the same scale as a 25X felt from anyone else.
The rule: compare X inside a brand, compare feel and weight across brands.
4. Crown and brim: match the hat to your face and your height
Two decisions here, and they matter more than color.
Crown height. Our felt wall runs from tall 5-inch crowns like the Stetson Rancher, the RDR Sinaloa Patron and the Tombstone Johnson, down to 4 1/4 to 4 5/8-inch crowns like the Stetson Skyline and Pagosa or the Tombstone Chaparral. A taller crown adds height and suits a rounder or fuller face; a lower crown sits better on a long face and on shorter frames, where a tall hat can look like it is wearing you.
Brim width. We carry 3 1/2 inches (Tombstone, Stetson Spartan straw), 4 inches (Rancher, Skyline, Pagosa) and 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 inches (Stetson Lariat, Resistol Hazer and Kingman, Bullhide, RDR Open Crown). Broad shoulders and a wide face carry a wide brim; a narrow face or a smaller build looks more balanced under 3 1/2 to 4 inches. If you drive a lot or work indoors, a 4-inch brim clears door frames and headrests better than a 4 1/2.
The crease is the last touch: cattleman, brick, pinch front, open crown. We shape felt hats in the store, and the first shaping is free with your purchase. Read Cowboy Hat Crown Shapes if you want to arrive with a favorite.
5. What a cowboy hat really costs in Dallas
These are our rack prices in September 2026, across six brands and more than 100 hats on the floor.
| Budget | What you get at Teres |
|---|---|
| Under $100 (12 hats) | Bullhide Legendary 20X ivory straw $35.99; Bullhide 20X and 25X natural straws and PBR editions $59.99 to $79.99; RDR 20X palm $54.99; Tombstone Johnson and Chaparral 1000X Master Telar $79.99; Resistol Cody Johnson Drexal and Edgewood straws $79.99. |
| $100 to $200 (47 hats, the biggest group) | RDR 4X felt $109.99 to $119.99 and RDR 30X palm $109.99 to $129.99; Bullhide 4X wool felt $119.99, 8X fur blend $129.99 and Cody Nite 10X $148.99; Resistol 3X and 4X wool felt $149.99 to $190; Stetson Deadwood 4X $169.99; Stetson and Resistol 10X shantung straws $159.99 to $189.99; Tombstone 30X hand-woven $189.99. |
| $200 to $400 (37 hats) | Resistol George Strait Colt and Cody Johnson CoJo Special straws $209; Tombstone 5000X Master Telar $219.99; Stetson Griffin 100X straw $260; Stetson 5X and 6X fur felt $299.99 to $399.99; Resistol 6X fur felt $380; RDR Sinaloa Patron 6X $359 and 10X $399.99. |
| Above $400 (5 hats) | Stetson Shasta 10X beaver $599.99; Stetson El Patron 30X $800; Stetson El Presidente 100X $1,400; Larry Mahan Superior 500X pure beaver $1,499, the finest hat in the store. |
What the money buys as you climb: wool felt is the entry point and the heaviest; fur blends are lighter and keep their crease through more seasons; beaver felt is the lightest, most water-resistant and, with care, a hat you will hand down. In straw, a tighter weave means a smoother finish, better sun protection and a hat that keeps its shape when it gets damp.
6. Straw notes for Dallas summers
- Shantung (Stetson, Resistol): a fine paper-based straw with a smooth, dressy look. Light, cool and the choice for a summer wedding or a night out.
- Palm (RDR, Tombstone): the traditional Mexican palm hat, sturdier and more forgiving of daily use. RDR is made in Mexico, several models with a horsehair or bi-ply band.
- Vented weaves: the RDR C28 and the Resistol Cody Johnson Drexal and Edgewood have open, ventilated crowns for the hottest months.
- PBR and rodeo editions: Bullhide's PBR straws (Playoff Winner, Ride Pass, Keep Ridin) and the Stetson USA 250 Skyline felts are for the fan who wants the badge on the hat.
Quick answers
Can I try them on? Yes. Every hat above is on the floor at 8033 Lake June Rd; hats are sold in store only, so you leave with the one you actually tried.
Do you shape and clean hats? Yes for felt. Shaping is free with your purchase; cleaning and reshaping of hats bought elsewhere is a paid service. Straw and palm hats are not reshaped. See How to Clean a Felt Cowboy Hat.
Do you have big sizes? Up to 7 5/8 in Bullhide and Tombstone, and one 7 3/4 right now. Call ahead and we will tell you what is on the floor in your size.
Is a 6X Stetson better than a 30X RDR? They are different things. The Stetson is fur felt; the RDR 30X is palm. Compare X only inside a brand.
Do you speak Spanish? Sí. Todo el equipo es bilingüe.
Try them on in Lake June Rd
Browse the full hat collection, or go straight to felt, straw, Stetson, Resistol, RDR, Tombstone, Bullhide or Larry Mahan. Then come in, measure your head at the counter and try three or four side by side. The right one is usually obvious in the mirror.
Teres Western Wear — rated 4.9 stars on Google by 300+ customers
📍 8033 Lake June Road, Dallas, TX 75217
📞 (214) 391-0508
Hours
Monday – Tuesday: 10 AM – 7 PM
Wednesday: Closed
Thursday: 10 AM – 7 PM
Friday – Saturday: 10 AM – 8 PM
Sunday: 10 AM – 7 PM
Prices reflect our in-store inventory in September 2026 and change as stock rotates. Fit and styling advice is general guidance from our floor experience; every head and every hat is different, so come try it on.